Thanks to the recent advancement in the flooring industry, you can now preserve the decorative value of concrete for years. With basic cleaning and applying diamond polishing pads to the concrete floor, you can easily restore the gleam of stained and dull grey concrete stone. Concrete is a strong, durable and versatile building material but sometimes undermined due to its dull boring gray appearance. Polishing is a process that can add beauty to otherwise drab surface while reducing costs, enhancing sustainability, and contributing to the overall easy-to-maintain lustrous surface.

Diamond polishing pads can be comfortably applied to marble polishing, granite polishing and concrete polishing. There is a complete line of pads available in the market for different applications such as Wet Resin Bond Diamond and Dry Polishing Pads. Wet Resin Bond Diamond are the best pads for polishing granite and marble in stone shops whereas; dry diamond polishing pads are used for polishing marble, granites, concrete floors and counter tops.

Polishing Basics

Polishing your concrete floor

The technique for polishing a concrete surface may seem simpler, but it may call for professional help to get the work impeccably. The machine used to polish your old stained concrete surface is equipped with diamond-impregnated disks with metal pads attached at the bottom with diamond scattered pieces. It is by pushing and moving the polishing pads over the surface you will smooth away the flaws in the stone, even in the uneven areas.

Polishing your concrete has to go through several stages

Polishing your concrete is done in several passes. You may use the best diamond polishing pad to pass it over each successive concrete surface, doubling the size of the grit as you change pads. Switch to a 32-grit diamond pad, then move to a 60- grit diamond pad, and finally to a 120- grit pad. At this stage, surface is reasonably level but the shiny element may still lag behind. So, as to give more decorative value to the surface, you must start with a 50- grit pad till a 3000 grit pad to get the finest polished surface.

Technique Basics

Technique involved in transforming dull concrete to the glossy world

When moving the diamond pads over the concrete surface, work in small circles. After passing concrete floor to the diamond pads, your concrete surface will sink with small air holes. These holes can be successfully filled after spraying a slight layer of acrylic tile adhesive. After that, you can apply an effective concrete hardener to the surface, making the surface hardener to take up the finishing.

Final Touch – Finishing to the concrete floor

It is after smoothing the concrete; you need to apply a sealant to increase the shine you’ve managed to achieve from the diamond polishing pads. Also, finishing process helps to protect the floor from recurring wear and tear making it highly durable, long lasting and shiny.

High performance diamond pads provide the best possible professional polish on the curved edges or flat surfaces of granite, marble and other natural stones. The quality of work obtained through diamond pads over side even the original factory polish. Contractors, companies and individuals are excessively using the diamond polishing pads as they are the finest pads in the industry reckoned for their consistent performance and extraordinary finishing.

By: Mark Bruddy

About the Author:

Mark Bruddy work with Premium Blade, a leading US manufacturer and distributor of diamond saw blades, concrete polishing pads and other specialty diamond cutting and finishing tools for over 20 years.

Agate, the diversity of the shape and characteristics

Differences in the shape of agate stone

China’s vast land, nature’s treasures, a variety of rocks in different styles and customs of thousands. Agate rocks, unique, is China rocks Court in a bright wonderful work.

According to Zhang Hong-chiu, “China gemstone wholesaler Ya,” a book research: Agate origin of the name as “Joan Rose,” “Dan Qiong”, “Red King” … … Bamboo in: “Zhou for King Room, Legislative Yumen” records. “Agate” is, first seen last Shigao the translation of the Eastern Han Dynasty, “A sub-shan Di Seven that by” the book. Buddhist love of esteem on the agate, so that “agate” The Borrowed the term come from behind, still in use.

China rocks in a long history, limited by various reasons, preserved works are rare in this regard. Song with the “Yunlin Stone spectrum”, which is the oldest existing one rocks in the monograph, the book describes 116 species of rocks, of which 8 is the agate stone, the largest proportion. Can be seen in the Song, agate is already a kind of ornamental stones that people loved.

Ming Lin Youlin from their homes in the reservoir rocks in the pool building, its written by the “prime spectrum of garden stone,” a book, illustrated, is a rare rocks in the monograph.

The Republic of China Mr. Zhang Lunyuan author of “Man Shek Chai Ling rock spectrum” and “10000 Stone House Marble spectrum.” As we all know, to small and exquisite stone known for its colorful, transparent texture were mostly agate, agate gravel is a book on the production in Luhe County, Jiangsu Yuhua agate texture, color, texture, symbolism, nomenclature, tasting and display of appreciation are introduced. Yuhua agate collection in research, attained great achievements.

Determined on the value of agate stone, “ Jewelry supplier Georgia should be of the ancient” contains: “Agate more north to south Fan, Zephaniah also. Non-non-jade stone, firm and crisp, Lee Knife is not moving. Including birds, animals , people who form the most expensive “records.

In addition, the “Museum to view” also wrote “non-rock non-agate jade, a class of naturally. Red, white, black, 3 species have patterns such as those who wrapped wire. Person who is playing well in small things, big who study them for the equipment … …, bird and flower forms are the most valuable. “

Modern geological surveys have proved that China’s resource-rich agate, Liaoning, Heilongjiang, Jiangsu, Xinjiang and other places have produced. Agate mining has a long history in western Liaoning, it will be produced here, agate called “Jinzhou Stone.” Early 90s of last century, an agate processing heat in the “agate village” of Fuxin rise, its practitioners are a number of local farmers. As a beginner first practice, not good at sculpture, they did just agate cut into plates, sheets, made of wafer cards for sale. Agate Brand is a cheap and good accessories, marketing all over the country. From 1994 to 1998, the production and marketing is the heyday of agate slice, agate slice day of trading were tens of thousands of small pieces, for a long time up to ten million units. More things, it is inevitable to pick and choose, people in the selection, and found some pictographic patterns: some, such as landscapes, flowers, and some people like animals, some like text … … Of course, not every piece of agate are pictographic patterns , the author in a workshop where it took two days, turned on the territory’s nearly 30,000 agate, have failed to identify a value with a good collection of films to. If any collection everywhere, it is not surprising, Suddenly, this is the rocks charm.

Some people say, agate slice is good, but it cut through the manual polishing, fails to natural resistance. Profile control stone treasure hunters, since ancient times with them. Spring and Autumn Period, that piece of priceless “and the bi’s,” is an old piece of Jade and get cut open. It’s piece and bi, in the interpretation of Chinese history scenes out of popular legend. “Yunlin rock spectrum,” the book records the piece of the “Dragon”-shaped gemstone supplier pattern of agate rocks, does not it took was discovered after grinding it? Marble, agate slice rocks, wit and heaven. This cutting polish, like opening doors and windows, as people glimpse the mystery of the stone. They are the same people who seek eggs from the river rocks on mountain rivers, with the same purpose, but is found in the process, method was different.

 



By: winbowgems

About the Author:

China jewelry wholesale, http://www.winbowgem.com supply vast kinds of styles handmade jewelry,mainly engage in wholesale handmade jewelry such as wholesale crystal ,wholesale pearl ,wholesale gemstone,who…
China jewelry wholesale, http://www.winbowgem.com supply vast kinds of styles handmade jewelry,mainly engage in wholesale handmade jewelry such as wholesale crystal ,wholesale pearl ,wholesale gemstone,who…

Material Hardness & Abrasiveness

Materials have varying degrees of hardness and abrasiveness.  Additionally, specific man-made and natural materials can differ greatly depending upon the exact physical composition.  For example, glass varies in hardness depending upon color and type, since various metals and minerals are added to achieve the different types and colors.  Glass also has differing degrees of “temper” depending upon the specific manufacturing methods used.  Ceramics, ceramic tile, porcelain and porcelain tile are various forms of vitrified glass like material.  They also have differing hardness and abrasiveness depending upon the type, composition, manufacturer and manufacturing methods used.

The hardness and abrasiveness of natural materials, such as stone, vary by type, but they also vary significantly within a specific type.  Most stones are not pure – they are mixtures of various types of rock.  Granite, for example, contains various combinations of primarily quartz, feldspar, black mica and hornblende.  Therefore, a specific stone type such as granite or marble, will vary significantly in hardness and abrasiveness depending upon the exact mineral composition that varies by quarry location.

Below is a table of the hardness of various materials.  The table uses the standard Knoop Hardness Scale (kg/mm2).  The hardest known material is Diamond, with a Knoop measurement of 7,000.  Tungsten Carbide, used in carbide drill bits, is the hardest natural material next to Diamond.  However, with a measurement of 2,100, Tungsten Carbide is only 30% as hard as Diamond.

Material

Wood – Pine

Copper

Limestone

Marble

Slate

Porcelain Fixtures & China

Glass & Ceramic

Ceramic/Porcelain Wall Tile

Marble Style Floor Tile

Granite Style Floor Tile

Granite

Quartz

Tungsten Carbide

Diamond

Knoop

Hardness Scale

10

120

125 – 150

140 – 180

140 – 250

400 – 500

450 – 600

450 – 650

500 – 650

500 – 650

550 – 650

820

2,100

7,000

Drill Speeds

Diamond drill speeds vary depending upon the manufacturer and type of diamond drill.  Glastar Blunt Nose Diamond Drills, designed for use on glass, can be used at high speeds up to 10,000.  However, Diamond Core Drill Bits, for use on glass, stone and tile should be used at slow to very slow speeds, with the speed decreasing as the hardness and abrasiveness of the material increases.  Also, since the circumference of a bit increases as the bit diameter becomes larger, the drill rpm speed must be reduced on larger bits to offset the increased speed at which the outside cutting edge is moving.

The following table shows recommended drill speeds for Diamond Core Drill Bits.  Drill speeds considerably in excess of these speeds will quickly burn up the diamond bits.  Reduced drill speeds, low drill pressure and use of water for lubrication will extend drill bit life.

Recommended Drill Speeds

Diamond Core Drill Bits

Recommended Drill Speed (rpm)

Material         Bit Size –>

1/2″

1″

2″

3″

4″

Fiberglass

1200

700

350

250

175

Limestone & Marble Stone

900

550

275

180

140

Glass, Ceramic & Porcelain China

800

500

250

160

125

Ceramic/Porcelain Wall Tile

600

450

225

130

100

Stone Style Porcelain Floor Tile

500

375

180

125

90

Granite Stone

400

300

150

100

750

(Not for use on Concrete or Masonry, or with Hammer Drills)





SPEED KILLS:

Reduced drill speeds, low drill pressure and increased use of water lubrication will extend drill bit life considerably.

Since all materials vary in hardness and abrasiveness, it is impossible to determine exact drill speeds.  Additionally, as discussed below, lubrication and drill pressure must also be considered when determining the proper drill speed.  A faster drill speed or increased pressure may reduce the cutting time slightly, but it will also increase the friction significantly and heat up the bit, reducing the bit life considerably and increasing the risk of heat fractures and material breakage.  If used properly, a diamond drill bit should never be more than warm when touched after use.  If a drill bit develops yellow, brown, blue or black ‘burn marks’ around the tip, it is an indication of extreme heat and that the drill speed being used is too fast or the amount of pressure on the drill is too great.

Lubrication

Water or coolant must always be used to cool and lubricate the tip.  The lubrication reduces heat build-up, prolonging drill bit life and helps avoid heat fractures in the material.  Water is most often used as the lubricant, since it works very well and has no cost.  Oil based lubricants do not work well on diamond drill bits.

Good lubrication is critical.  Minimal lubrication will keep the bit from burning up, but very good lubrication techniques will extend bit life by a factor of 5 or even 10.

When drilling in fiberglass, a diamond drill bit can be used dry or with a very small amount of water.  When drilling in glass or ceramic, soft ceramic tile and porcelain, if properly lubricated, the dust from the cut should dissipate into the water.  The drill bit contact with the surface should always be wet and the drill bit tip should never be hot.  If the tip is ever more than just warm, it is generally an indication of too little lubrication (or possibly too much speed or pressure).

When drilling in hard, abrasive materials such as limestone, sandstone, hard ceramic and porcelain tiles, marble or granite, it is critical to have lots of lubrication.  With these hard materials, it is common to drill under water or to have a small amount of water constantly running over the drill bit and bore hole.  In either case, the “pumping” technique described below is needed to assure water reaches the very tip of the bit.

This discussion is presented only as a guide.  It is almost impossible to have ‘too much’ lubrication and the only down side risk is the mess from water being thrown off by the bit.  However, ‘too little’ lubrication will cause many problems.

Lubrication Tips & Techniques

Various kinds of very specialized industrial water feed equipment are available for industrial production type work.  But, when drilling with diamond bits, the primary concern is merely getting enough water lubrication on the cutting edge of the bit, no mater what method is used.

However, all lubrication methods are not equal.  Since good lubrication extends drill bit life considerably, we rated the various methods to help people understand the differences between the various methods.  As a rule of thumb, the relative rating also gives a general indication of the relative drill bit life under various lubrication methods.  For example, the clay dam lubrication method (8 rating) should provide a drill bit life of approximately 4 times that of using a squirt bottle (2 rating).

Drill Bit

Lubrication Method

Squirt Bottle

Hose

Clay Dam

Under Water

Water Feed

Pumping Action

Rating

(1 poor – 10 good)

2

4

8

10

10

10

The most basic method is to use a small hose that runs water onto the surface near the hole and down into the bore hole.  To provide lubrication on a horizontal surface, one trick is to place a plastic jug or bottle with a small hole near the bottom of it, next to the drill hole.  The water leaks out of the bottle and provides continuous lubrication as you drill.  To allow lubrication to reach the drill tip, it is important to use a “pumping” technique described below.  Without the pumping technique, the water rarely reaches the very tip of the drill bit.

Another excellent lubrication technique is to build a “dam” around the drill hole using a small amount of modeling clay or a similar material.  This method is very effective, especially if the water extends above the side tip lubrication hole to allow water to flow into the bit providing good interior lubrication.  “Pumping” the drill will also increase the lubrication at the tip.  The clay can be used many times if it is stored in a plastic sandwich style zip-lock bag to keep it from drying out.

For low volume repetitive work, it is also possible to place the material into a short ‘cake’ style pan (place a thin plastic board underneath so you don’t drill into the pan) and fill the pan with water so that it covers the surface of the material being drilled.  If possible, the water should cover the side lubrication hole on the tip of the diamond drill bit.

When drilling on vertical surfaces, about the only way to apply water is to use some type of hose.  If that is not possible, a marginally effective solution is to have someone constantly “squirting” water into the bore hole using a squirt bottle.  Squirting water will usually keep the bit from burning up, but unless a pumping action is used, the water rarely reaches the very tip of the drill.

No matter what lubrication method is used, a periodic “pumping” action will significantly improve lubrication at the drill tip.  Because of the pressure on the drill tip, water has trouble reaching the very tip of the drill bit.  A “pumping” technique allows lubrication to reach the very tip.  While drilling, merely raise the drill up and down a fraction of an inch once in a while as you drill (maybe every 20 to 30 seconds or so).  This assures that water enters the drill tip area completely and fully lubricates the very tip

Drill Pressure

When using normal drill bits on soft materials such as wood, increasing the pressure causes the bit to drill faster and has little affect upon friction or heat build-up on the bit.  When drilling in harder materials such as hardwoods, it is more important to reduce the pressure and let the bit “drill at its own speed”.  Otherwise, friction will quickly burn up the bit.  When using diamond drill bits, the affect is similar to hardwood drilling, but it is magnified many times due to the extreme hardness and abrasiveness of the material being drilled.

When using diamond drills on glass, ceramic or porcelain tile, limestone, marble and granite, etc, it is very important to have only light to medium pressure on the drill and to let the bit “drill at its own speed”.  Increasing pressure will not speed up the cutting noticeably, but it will increase the friction considerably and quickly cause the bit to overheat.  This not only burns up the bit, but it also heats up the surrounding surface and can cause heat fractures or breakage to occur.

Recommended Drill Head Pressure

Diamond Core Drill Bits

Material

Recommended Drill Head

Pressure (lbs.) *

Fiberglass

10 to 15 lbs.

Limestone & Marble Stone

12 to 18 lbs.

Glass, Ceramic & Porcelain China

12 to 18 lbs.

Ceramic/Porcelain Wall Tile

15 to 20 lbs.

Stone Style Porcelain Floor Tile

18 to 30 lbs.

Granite Stone

18 to 30 lbs.

* WARNING:

Drill press arms leverage hand pressure by a factor of about

6 to 8.  So 2 lbs. of hand pressure on the drill press arm will apply about 14 lbs of pressure to the drill head.

If a drill bit develops yellow, brown, blue or black ‘burn marks’ around the tip, it is an indication of extreme heat caused by the excessive drill speed or by too much pressure on the drill.  Impact type “hammer drills” should never be used with diamond drills as they have no benefit and will cause the tip of the bit to mushroom or split.

If a hole is being drilled completely through a piece of material, it is also important to “lighten up” considerably on the pressure when the drill bit is near the back of the material.  This reduces chipping or fracturing on the back of the material when the bit emerges from the back

Balancing Cutting Speed, Drill Speed, Pressure and Lubrication

The cutting speed and life of a diamond drill bit are affected by the hardness and abrasiveness of the material plus the drill speed, pressure and lubrication.  Experience with a specific material quickly allows a person to determine the optimum drill speed, pressure and lubrication to obtain the fastest cutting speed with the least affect upon bit life and risk of heat fractures or breakage.  However, when experience is lacking, it is best to start out with a very slow drill speed, very low pressure and lots of lubrication.  This starting point reduces risks to a minimum and extends bit life considerably

Pilot Bits on Core Drills

Pilot bits are often seen on standard metal core drill bits or hole saws designed for use on wood and other soft materials.  A pilot bit is a small drill bit located in the center of the hollow core drill bit, that keeps the bit centered while starting a hole.  Pilot bits are especially convenient when using a core drill bit in a hand drill.  When a pilot bit is not present, a core drill bit may tend to “walk” until it seats into a groove.

However, pilot bits are rarely used on diamond core drill bits since there are many drawbacks of a pilot bit with the diamond core drill bit design and drilling in very hard materials.

A diamond pilot bit adds significant cost to the already expensive diamond core drill bits. The diamond pilot bit often wears out before the main core bit. Drilling times can be considerable when drilling in very hard materials and a pilot bit increases the drilling time even more. A pilot bit eliminates the shaft water-feed lubrication hole and does not allow the use of center water-feed equipment.

A template can easily be used to start a core drill that does not have a pilot bit.  This simple technique is discussed in the following section.

Starting a Core Drill Bit by Using a Template

Core drill bits above 1/2″ work best when used in a drill press rather than in a hand drill.  Starting a core drill bit when using a drill press is simple, since the drill press keeps the drill bit from moving about.  To reduce drill bit slippage or “walking” when using a hand drill, a template can be made to help start the drill bit if necessary.

A template is made by drilling a pilot hole in a piece of soft wood or plastic, using the diamond core drill bit or by cutting a “V” in the edge of a piece of wood or plastic or drilling a hole in it the size of ther core drill.  The hole template works best, however, the “V” template is easier to make and can be used with many sizes of core drill bits.

Templates are often made of 1/8″ plexiglass, 1/8″ pressed wood or even cardboard.  For repetitive drilling, a plastic or plexiglass template works best since water lubrication can be used immediately.  The template is placed on the surface of the material being drilled, with the pilot hole or “V” above the target hole area.  The template will hold the core drill bit in place as it starts.  After just a few revolutions of the drill bit, a groove is created and the template can be removed.

Depth of Bore

Bonded diamond core drill bits are designed to drill to depths of about 1/2″.  When drilling with core drills in material over 1/2″ thick (such as slab marble or stone), it is generally best to drill to a depth of about 1/2″, then carefully chip out the center ‘plug’ with a chisel or screwdriver before continuing to drill.  This process reduces friction and heat build-up caused by the ‘plug’ and will actually reduce the cutting time and increase the life of the bit.

When drilling large diameter holes (say 2″ wide and larger) in some hard materials such as marble or granite, it is sometimes difficult to break-out the plug without drilling several smaller holes into the plug so that it can be removed in sections.

Drilling deep holes with bonded diamond drill bits is generally limited to about 1″ in depth depending upon the specific material being drilled.  Even when removing the core periodically, the friction still increases considerable and limits deep boring.  For deeper holes, a sintered diamond drill bit is normally required.  The more expensive sintered bits have diamonds embedded directly into the metal tip and are most appropriate for deep drilling.

Ceramic and Porcelain Tile

While this is a distinct advantage from the stand point of wear, the newer Ceramic tile is often difficult to drill without a diamond drill bit.

Porcelain tile was originally developed as an alternative to Ceramic tile, for use in floor applications where usage and wear was more extreme.  Porcelain tile is made with various mixtures of materials, often including feldspar and quartz, which are two of the major components of natural Granite.  The use of Porcelain floor tile was generally limited to commercial applications, but by the late 1980′s, Porcelain tile use expanded more into residential construction.

In the 1990′s, tile manufacturers began to expand their Porcelain tile product lines to include many different styles and many that closely resembled natural stones.  Because of the natural stone look, Porcelain tile use on walls and counters became more popular.  Finally, in the late 1990′s tile manufacturer’s experimented with new manufacturing techniques that made the Porcelain tile significantly harder.  As with Ceramic tile, this was a major advancement resulting in reduced wear and very long life.  However, many Porcelain tiles are now as hard as Granite and some are even harder.  The newer type of high-quality, “super-hard”, “Class V” Porcelain tile is now almost impossible to drill with the older “spear point” carbide drill bits and generally can only be drilled with a diamond drill bit.

When drilling in the newer super-hard tile, using a diamond drill bit is the only reasonable option.  However, even with a diamond drill bit, the drilling process takes considerable time and the extremely hard material is not very forgiving if inappropriate drilling techniques are used.  It is critical that good drilling techniques be used.  Appropriate drill speeds, low drill pressure and good lubrication are critical.

Glass Block Drilling

Drilling in glass block is basically no different than drilling in normal glass.  If you keep the speed down, use low drill pressure and plenty of water for lubrication, you won’t have any problems.  However, there are a few very important facts and tips that will help people in their task.

There are numerous different types and styles of glass block made by many different manufacturers.  Most have some type of design or pattern, however, for drilling purposes, there are two very important characteristics to be aware.  Glass block varies significantly in the thickness of the glass wall and also by how tempered the glass is.  This information is rarely disclosed on the block itself, but should be considered when buying glass block for crafting purposes.

If you are drilling glass block that has been installed in a wall, you don’t have much choice but to drill whatever is there.  However, for craft projects, it is good to be very selective.  If the glass block is 3/8″ thick, it will take three times as long to drill compared to block with a 1/8″ thick wall.  Additionally, it will triple the drill bit wear per hole, causing the bit life to be only one-third as long.

Tempered glass is sometimes used in glass block to increase the load bearing capability of the block.  Tempered glass has differing degrees of temper, and while it can be drilled, it should be avoided if reasonably possible.  Tempered glass block can increase drilling times by 200% to 500% or even more, when compared to standard untempered glass.  Additionally, depending upon the degree of glass temper, drill bit life can be reduced by 75% to as much as 90%.

Experienced crafters who work with glass block eventually learn to search for different types and styles of glass block to test.  After drilling a sample of each block, it is obvious which block has a thin wall and which block is untempered.  Also, crafters who are drilling lots of glass blocks, normally develop some type of pan drilling method, so that the block can be drilled under water to improve lubrication and extend drill bit life.  The “clay dam” method of lubrication is also very effective for drilling in glass block.  Water lubrication techniques are discussed in more detail in the Lubrication Tips & Tricks section.

Glass block normally has a vacuum inside.  Some of the water and glass dust will always be sucked inside when you break through.  But, it is easy to rinse out the inside of the block with water as long as the dirty water is not allowed to dry out.  The plug from the hole will sometimes be pulled into the block, but it will usually drop out easily when the inside is rinsed.  However, if too much pressure was placed on the drill as the hole breaks through, it can cause the plug to have a flair from the splintering on the rear of the hole.  Normally, you can remove the plug with a pair of needle nose pliers, but the best solution is to reduce the drill pressure to avoid splintering as the drill breaks through.

A Few Final Glass Block Tips

A piece of wire from a regular coat hanger works great for inserting into the hole to “push” the lights around inside the block, so that all the corners are filled with lights.

A hand drill works fine using a starting template and a clay dam – for a few glass blocks.  However, an inexpensive drill press is well worth the cost if you are making lots of blocks.  There are many very nice, inexpensive drill presses available these days and they make glass block drilling fast and easy compared to a hand drill.

A 1/2″ diamond core drill bit works well, is about the right size and seems to be the most popular size for glass block drilling.  However, we prefer a 5/8″ bit, since the slightly larger hole gives a little extra room when inserting the lights, pushing them around or to easily remove them if you change your mind (or need to change a bulb).

Finally, if you ever get a chance to try the “LED” or “Tiny Lights”, give them a try – especially the big strings of 60 or 100 (it takes a few more lights because they are so small). Yes, they cost more, but they create almost no heat, last nearly forever and most importantly – they usually have a “special” random blinking pattern that blinks & twinkles & strobes, etc.  The special lighting affect is really worth the additional cost.

Diamond Drill Bit Life

The life span of all types of drill bits is affected by the hardness and abrasiveness of the material being drilled, the thickness of the material, plus the speed of the power drill, the amount of pressure used and the use of adequate lubrication.  The hardness and abrasiveness of materials can vary significantly.  Even materials which appear similar have varying degrees of hardness and abrasiveness.  Each individual’s drill speed, pressure and amount of lubrication also varies significantly.  As a result it is nearly impossible to estimate the life of a diamond bit.

For example:  On standard 1/8″ glass, an electroplated diamond bit under 3/4″ may last for 200 to 300 holes, or more, depending upon the specific glass and specific drilling techniques used.  Larger bits tend to run about half as long due to a slightly different type of cutting action.  Drilling in 1/4″ glass, being twice as thick, will normally produce only half as many holes over a drill bit’s life, if the glass hardness and drilling techniques are the same.  Tempered glass has differing degrees of temper, and will reduce drill bit life by 75% to more than 90%, compared to standard glass.

Lubrication has a significant affect upon drill bit life.  Using a center water feel lubrication device or drilling under water with the water level above the side tip lubrication hole gives the best lubrication and the best drill bit life.  Using a clay type “dam” gives fairly good lubrication but since the water normally does not reach the side tip lubrication hole, the lubrication inside of the bit is much more limited. As a result, using a dam lubrication method will often reduce drill bit life by 25% to 40%.  Finally, spraying or splashing water onto the bit for lubrication works, but lubrication is very limited and drill bit life can easily be reduced by 40% to 60% compared to using a good water bath.

On the extremely hard and abrasive materials, such as granite or the newer “super-hard” porcelain floor tiles, a bonded diamond bit may only produce 6 to 12 holes in 3/8″ material.  However, the same bit may produce as many as 20 or more holes, all depending upon the specific material, the thickness and the specific drilling techniques used.  Tests on some of the less hard, class III floor tiles have ranged from 40 to 60 holes or more.  Wall tile is often less hard (but not always).  However, being only about 1/8″ to 3/16″ thick, the results in wall tile are normally two to three times greater than drilling in the same material that is 3/8″ thick, all while using the same drilling techniques.

These examples are are all based upon extensive testing in different materials using proper drill speeds, drill head pressure, and lubrication.  Test results were much less, using poor drilling techniques, and extreme tests using improper drilling techniques often resulted in a bit “burning up



By: Maurice

About the Author:

You may know one or more people in your social circle or family who have granite in their homes. You may have either opted to install granite yourself, or moved into a home where granite countertops or other granite pieces already existed. That may have even been a perk for choosing your home. Have you ever thought why granite is so common? You no doubt have your theories, and they may include the following four reasons.

Granite is popular because…

It’s a classic. Granite countertops, and in fact, granite as a building material, seem to be as old as time. More often than not when you find quality building materials in a home, granite is among them. Especially popular for kitchen countertops and bath vanity tops, granite has proven to be practical and beautiful over years of use. The familiar graining and versatile color palettes seem to make a house a home instantaneously. Really, when you see a granite countertop in all its glory, you don’t doubt why it’s considered a classic material.

It’s practical. It can be rare with more modern man-made materials to find that beauty and function merge. Not so with natural granite. One of the main reasons it works its way into houses, modern and ancient, is because it holds up so well. Considering that granite is cut from the sides of mountains, you would think it would be durable. But even after intense polishing and fabricating to make it countertop-ready, granite still maintains its solidarity underneath. The solid, side-of-a-mountain qualities come in quite handy in a busy kitchen or bathroom. Almost unbreakable, granite is also scratch, stain, and mildew-resistant. The natural coolness also finds function in the kitchen, making it perfect for baking especially. And granite is sanitary, highly resistant to harmful bacteria.

It’s versatile. There are very few materials that go with almost every style of kitchen or bathroom. Granite is one of them. The natural stone look blends with most design tastes but the sheer amount of colors to choose from certainly helps. From low-profile browns and tans to stunning reds and emeralds, granite can work with almost any style of kitchen. Whether your taste is more traditional with crown moulding and white cabinets, or more industrial with flat-paneled cabinets and stainless steel appliances, granite will not only coordinate but enhance the look.

It’s valuable. When renovating, the goal is often twofold: to improve the home’s appearance and to raise its market value. Nothing fulfills both goals like granite countertops. For as long as you live in your home, you’ll adore your granite countertops. But should you ever sell, they will work in your favor to appeal to a wide network of buyers. A finished kitchen is a prize for homebuyers and the better quality materials, the higher bids you’ll receive. So granite can be a perk today but also in the future should you choose to sell your home.

These are just a few basic reasons granite is such a popular choice for kitchen and bathroom design. There are few materials, natural or synthetic, that combine beauty and function so flawlessly to create a classic, practical, versatile, and valuable product. If it isn’t already, granite is sure to be a classic and a standard in your home very soon.



By: Factory Plaza

About the Author:

Factory Plaza is one of the largest producers of kitchen countertops and vanity tops in the USA.
We are committed to the communities in which we operate making every effort to bring quality
and affordability to each and every household. Here, at Factory Plaza, our customers are our
neighbors, our friends, and our business partners.

We also aim to educate those contemplating granite and marble products through our very
informative articles.

Furniture that has lost its lustre but is unmarked can have it’s shine restored fairly easily. Rub the surface with a course cloth dampened with white spirit. This will loosen the accumulated wax and grime, which can then be removed with a clean rag. Restore the gloss by rubbing with a polish reviver or burnishing compound, obtainable from DIY shops, or even with a metal polish. Apply it with a soft mutton cloth or stockinet: cloth containing synthetic fibers will not produce a good gloss. Finish by rubbing vigorously with a clean soft cloth.

If the finish on a piece of furniture has been badly damaged, it will need to be removed so that a new finish can be applied. Use a solvent remover to take off a finish. Do not use caustic soda, which will darken many woods, or a sander, which will leave circular marks which will show through the finished film. Ideally stripping should be done out of doors, but if this is not possible stand the furniture on a large polithene sheet to protect the floor and make sure the room is well ventilated.

Dab the paint remover on liberally and after a short while remove as much as possible with a flat scraper. Dampen the wood again with the paint remover and rub it with the grain, using small pieces of No. 2 and 3 wire wool. At this stage the wood can be lightened if necessary by bleaching, or it can be stained to a darker shade with wood stain. Naphtha-based stains are best as they are penetrating, do not raise the grain and are fast drying. Apply them evenly over the whole surface with a cloth.

If the grain is very open fill it before staining with a paste-type grain filler, thinned if necessary with white spirit. Rub across the grain to fill the pores and wipe off the surplus while soft with a clean cloth. Holes and cracks should be filled with a paste-type wood filler. Make good any broken edges or corners with plastic wood. French polish can be used to provide a finish, but it requires a fair degree of skill in application and it’s surface is easily marked by heat, solvents and abrasions.

A two part plastic coating lacquer will give just as good a finish and will be more resistant to marking. Alternatively a polyurethane finish is acceptable for many surfaces and is easily applied with a brush. To get an antique finish apply not less than two coats and rub the final coat along the grain with 000 wire wool and wax polish, then finish off with a clean soft cloth.

Removing Water Stains
A finish that shows heat and water marks is usually shellac or cellulose. Marks that have not penetrated right through to the wood can often be removed with a cutting compound, obtainable from DIY stores or with metal polish rubbed in with a soft cloth. But if they have gone right through, stripping is necessary and the whole surface must be treated.

A grey or black stain usually indicates that water has penetrated to the wood itself, take off the old finish and remove the stain with a two part wood bleach obtainable from DIY and paint shops, or with a solution of 1 tablespoon of oxalic acid and 1 pint of water. This solution is not as strong as bleach, but the acid is poisonous and must be used with extreme care. Again, treat the whole surface not just the affected part. If bleaching has made the wood lighter than required, darken with a naphtha-type stain before applying the finish.

Scratches And Burn Marks
A scratch mark right through the polish to the wood can be eliminated only by stripping and re-finishing, but it can be made less noticeable by rubbing in wax shoe polish of the nearest shade. Alternatively, reduce a shellac varnish with mentholated spirits to a thin solution and apply this carefully to the scratch with a small soft brush, or a toothpick. Repeat this application until the stain stands proud of the surface, then level it with fine glass paper or wet-or-dry paper. Restore the gloss with metal polish or burnishing compound.

Burn marks are more difficult to repair. Scrape away the finish from the burnt area and from the charred wood underneath. Sand the bare wood with glass paper and if necessary restain it. Then apply several coats of clear finish until the mark is proud of the surrounding surface and finish off as you would for a scratch mark. A deep hole can be filled with colored beeswax.

If furniture has split or cracked, often caused by central heating, stripping is essential. Fill in cracks with paste wood-filler or, if very large, with slivers of wood and adhesive before applying the finish. Dents can be made less obvious by applications of clear finish, but stripping is usually necessary to remove them. After stripping either sand the surrounding area until the dent is no longer apparent or apply a little water to the dented area to swell the wood fibers.

If a finish has become ‘crazed’ it is usually made of cellulose and cannot be restored, only replaced. Stripping is necessary, as it is with a finish that has faded through exposure to strong sunlight.

By: Gordon Mckee

About the Author:

I’m a keen DIY enthusiast and freelance writer. To find out more on wood projects visit my website and check out the other woodworking carpentry news & reviews.

Everyone knows that diamonds is the hardest gemstone and women all over the world go crazy to own a diamond jewelry. This beautiful gemstone is renowned for its lustrous beauty, but very few people know of its ability to be used in other fields like electronics, machinery etc.The two aspects of this gem stone are so diverse in association and nature that one does not really connect the two uses with each other.

The diamond has certain very unique properties that enable it to be used in these various applications. It is the hardest substance on earth, has an extremely high thermal conductivity, is optically transparent and has high electrical resistance.

The hardness property of the diamond makes it amenable to be used as a cutting tool, especially for hard substances like marble, granite and hard wood. It is embedded in mechanical tools to enable the shaping of engine blocks and automotive components.

Once the process of developing synthetic diamonds was discovered, these synthetic diamonds were obviously the most preferred option for use in machinery. Apart from the cost, there are many other benefits of using synthetic diamond in tools. synthetic diamond growth can be controlled and monitored to produce desired shape and consistency. This is not the case with respect to natural diamonds where nature determines the shape, size and contours of the diamond based on various random natural events. Since the development of the synthetic diamond takes place in a laboratory, the level of impurities and mineral inclusions can be controlled. Due to these reasons and more the synthetic diamond today is sturdier as compared to the natural ones.

Another property that lends itself to use in mechanical work is that of thermal conductivity. The type IIa diamond can conduct up to 5 times more heat than the metal copper. The fact that it can absorb high levels of heat means that it can be used to reduce the friction in many engineering parts. Including the diamond as a ‘heat sink’ helps in extending the life of the machinery since it avoids wear and tear due to friction and heat. ‘Slices’ of synthetic diamonds are also be used for other industrial and surgical tools.

Much research is being done to use diamond chips instead of silicon chips in computers and it is being said that such computers would be 1000 times faster than the existing ones.

Even though the diamonds were being produced synthetically in the early 1990′s, they had not made their appearance in the jewelry industry. Large synthetic diamonds could be used only by using a lot of energy and ultra-modern technology. Since the engineering and mechanical market needs were yet not being met completely by the synthetic diamond supply, the proliferation of the synthetic diamond in the jewelry industry was abated. Another reason why the synthetic diamonds did not make their way into the studded necklaces was the fact that most of the synthetic diamonds being produced were still yellow or brownish in color.

The development and growth process of large diamonds required for the tools industry itself took too long. In 1990, De Beers claimed to have produced the largest synthetic diamond; a yellowish brown piece that was about 14.20 carats. This diamond alone took 500 hours to grow. Three years later they reported having produced a 34.80 carat crystal that took 600 hours to grow. Another few years and De Beers claimed that it was possible to produce 30 carat crystals in lesser time. But now one can find synthetic diamonds in many fancy colours and in white colorless shades too.

Even though there were great obstacles in perfecting the art of making gem quality synthetic diamonds, some companies forged ahead and continued to research the process. The challenge that they faced was that they could not avoid the nitrogen from entering the diamond while during the process of production, the gas that gives the diamonds the yellow color. GE was the first company to produce an almost colorless synthetic diamond by eliminating nitrogen from the process. This was done by using a metal flux, a substance that melts and dissolves other material in it. Special compounds were added to the metal flux to keep the nitrogen from entering the process chambers. Even though De Beers had also discovered the art of making synthetic colorless diamonds, neither company released their experiments and the colorless gems that came from them into the market. However, a Thai-Russian joint venture in Thailand distributed lab made colorless diamonds in the market.

Since the jewelry market does not require large pieces, these colorless synthetics are faster to grow, produce and sell in the market. Though the synthetic diamonds caters to a larger audience of the gem industry, they increase the possibility of being swindled, fraud and non-disclosure in the trade. As the production process is perfected and better quality colorless synthetics are produced and marketed each year, the challenge for the professionals in the jewelry industry becomes harder.

Source: GIA



By: Mithun Rao

About the Author:

Mithun Rao holds a professional degree in gemology and jewelry design from Mumbai and has spent more than 10 years in the industry. He manages his own jewel store business and takes out the free time to write and maintain his site on gemstone information and diamond industry.