“Oh no, now I’ve done it.” You have just applied to much paint and created huge sagging paint globs to your once perfect model. That perfect contest winning finish you were hoping for is now a disaster.

All is not lost however. You can fix just about any paint mistake that you have made on your contest model with just a bit of work. With a careful paint sanding technique, you can create a perfect finish.

Using four techniques; paint standing, re-spray, paint polish and wax, you can fix just about any mistake you make. I will show you how to use these techniques to fix your model and bring it back to contest level.

Paint standing is the first technique we will use to correct and over spray or orange peel situation you have created on your model. Orange peel is just extra paint that is applied to thickly and ends up making the surface of your model looked like the outside of an orange. The easiest technique I’ve found to correct this kind of situation is just to use sandpaper to grind off the extra paint. The hardest part of doing this is not to stand into the details sticking out of the surface of your model.

There are many different grades or grits of sandpaper. I basically classify sandpaper into two types, rough and fine. Rough sandpaper comes in grit numbers from 100 to 1000. The lower the number the more course it is. For heavy paint removal I typically use number 320 grit. Fine sandpaper runs from 2000 thru 12000 grit. This fine grit is one secret to getting to a perfect finish.

Sandpaper comes with different kinds of backing. I prefer cloth backing over the cheaper paper backing because generally I use only a wet sanding technique. Wet sanding is where you use water to help lubricate the surface of the model and generally works better for my model paints.

Your first task is to let your paint mistake dry completely. Then start the uneven paint removal with a rough grit sanding being very careful not to sand into any plastic detail of your model. I will cut the sandpaper into very small pieces and hold them or glue them to wooden “tools” to get into small places. I will also use paint thinner to soften paint buildup around detailed areas keeping in mind that you do not want to ruin the plastic.

Once this is done, re-spray paint the damaged area.

Continue this process of sanding and re-spraying until you are satisfied with the finish. At this stage you are now ready to fine sand the paint.

Fine sanding is really the true secret to a perfect paint finish. I work the paint finish by sanding the paint using these grits in order.

2400

3200

4000

6000

8000

12000

The sandpaper I like to use is sandwiched between foam so that it conforms to the surface of the model more easily. Each step uses the wet sanding technique with water. Change your sanding strokes in different directions and try not to use a lot of pressure. At the end of this paint sanding sequence the surface of your model should be very even and smooth. This will bring us to the next step which is polishing the paint.

Paint polish is the next secret to that near perfect paint finish for your contest winning model. I prefer Novus plastic paint polish. I work the paint to a fine mirror finish by using No. 3, No.2, and then No.1 in sequence. This sets you up for the final step which is wax protection.

Wax protection is the final step in and creating your contest winning the model finish.
I use Meguiar’s mirror glaze #26 professional high tech yellow wax. You can find this at any automotive parts store. I apply it with a soft cloth and buff the paint to a showroom finish.

Well there you have it. It is a lot of work but it is well worth the effort. In the end you have fixed your pain problem and come out with a model that has a complete showroom and contest winning finish.

By: Tanya Glenn

About the Author:




Tanya Glenn is a contest winning plastic car modeler. She runs an informational website that provides tips and techniques. To take advantage of this cool stuff, be sure to check out [http://www.tanyaglenn.com/blog]



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The short definition of Steampunk is: Victorian science fiction.

A slightly longer definition is: what the world would have looked like if the technical revolution had arrived a little earlier.

We have steam-powered machines and robots, Victorian culture and adventurers and explorers, both male and female. Think “Wild, Wild West”, think “League of Extraordinary Gentlemen”, think “Time Machine” and think Jules Verne.

There is a small but strong Steampunk culture growing in the Western world, and more and more are interested in it. After all, the Victorian times were interesting, that was when women were women and men were men, but this time you get all that but women are allowed to be independent and industrious and wear pants and you get all the comfort of modern technology, only with the Victorian era aesthetics.

If you would like to experiment with this subculture, you can start slow by dressing up as a Steampunk lady or gentleman this Halloween. If you like the experience, you can expand to Steampunk fairs and conventions, then start wearing Steampunk outfits at special events and weekends, and finally wear them every day. It really isn’t too outlandish to wear Steampunk at work.

Some general points

What ever you choose to wear, remember that it must be in keeping with the Victorian era aesthetics. This is not a question of time travel, but about trying to create a believable illusion of what the world could have been during the late 19th century. Don’t wear clothes with a clear label, sign or brand. It is a good idea to create a role. “The adventurer”, “the inventor”, “the explorer”, “the aristocrat”, “the engineer” and “the aviator” are all suitable roles for a Steampunk character. “Mad scientist” and “Villain” are also good choices. Brown (think sepia) is a popular color, but the Victorians used all colors with pleasure. Mauveine, a synthetic dye based on aniline, was invented during the Victorian era and was very popular. In fact, the more sober and “natural” color scheme of plant dyes was considered boring and dull. Cephalopods and arthropods are very Steampunkish motives, both as fabric print and decoration. Goggles and a pocket watch are almost indispensable accessories for a Steampunk outfit. You can replace the lack of these by using cogwheels, gears and buckles to decorate your clothes. All kinds of gadgets are appropriate, but they should be made to appear Victorian. It is not difficult to paint modern gadgets, so they look like wood or metal, and glue brass details on them, but if you lack the DIY skills, you can keep your gadgets in leather cases. Brass instruments, like compasses, telescopes, binoculars and measuring instruments are also very suitable. A revolver or pistol is a common Steampunk accessory, and you can transform any toy store gun into a Steampunk weapon with paint and brass details. Adding some wires and coils adds to the impression. It is not necessary though. Whether you wear a gun or not, tool belts, holsters and other such things are very useful in helping to create the desired impression. Wear a hat. The iconic Steampunk headgear is the top hat, usually adorned with the goggles, but an aviator’s cap or helmet is also typical. You can also use a paperboy cap. Other accessories, for both men and women, are gloves, scarves and shawls. Don’t forget the handkerchief. Spats are very Steampunkish, and you can even use leather gaiters or bracers with buckled straps. Use several belts on top of each other. Patterned and wildly colored socks are fine for both genders, but try to choose stripes, diamonds, checkers, or an ornamental pattern. Don’t use socks with cartoon characters, cute bunnies or such. Any military items, like military jackets and medals are very suitable, for both genders. I suppose the big metal buttons and passementerie (trimming made using cords and braids etc.) belong to this category. Items that make you think of engineering are wonderful, like leather aprons and tool belts. Don’t forget the proper underwear. Girls and women should be wearing bloomers or pettipants and petticoats with their skirts and a sleeveless chemise, with or without buttons, and boys and men should wear a one-piece.

Men

Victorian men always wore pants, but for Steampunk a kilt is a nice choice. The Victorian trousers have high waist and rather narrow or straight legs. Jeans would be an acceptable choice, but choose a worn pair that does not have a special dye or cut. Moleskin pants are also good.

You can use any kind of shirt, as long as it has long sleeves and sober coloring. You can even use a long-sleeved t-shirt, then preferably with buttons. The collar should be round. You can use sleeve holders, bracers or roll the sleeves up, but don’t use short sleeves.

It is appropriate to use a vest, but if you don’t use one, you should have braces. You can make the vest of some luxurious fabric, like brocade or jacquard, and add a matching cravat. There are several ways to tie a cravat, and you can use a wide tie or a scarf in stead of a cravat, what ever fits your character.

A jacket is fine, but you can also use a military jacket, duster or trench coat. If you use a trench coat, choose a simple one with refined pattern or no pattern at all in the lining, or one with no lining. Western style trench coat or riding duster is good.

You can use most shoes with laces, but oxfords or boots (with or without laces) are best. Canvas shoes can be used, but not sneakers.

It is common to use hats when dressing up in Steampunk gear, and in addition to the aforementioned top hat and leather helmet, you can choose a bowler or a fedora. It is a good idea to decorate this hat with something, preferably made of brass, like a couple of gear wheels or a brooch, but this is not necessary.

In the Victorian times both genders used jewelry. Suitable items for men are the aforementioned pocket watch, signet rings, cravat pins and cuff links, if one wears a shirt with sleeves unrolled, and a cravat or tie. It is acceptable for men to wear one earring, but it would then be a metal ring, and not a jeweled stud. If you want to wear a wrist watch, choose a simple design and mechanical, analog watch, and wear it on a leather strap. Brooches, especially medals, are good. You can also wear a ribbon in a buttonhole, or a boutonnière.

You can express yourself quite freely with your hairstyle. Practically anything is possible, the usual short and neatly combed Victorian hair is fine, spiked hair is quite OK and if you like, have dreadlocks with added leather straps and tubing.

Women

To create the Victorian impression, women today can dress up much more freely than Victorian women could. Nevertheless, there is one piece of clothing that is a must for a Steampunk outfit for women, and that is the corset. You can get away with a tight vest, but a corset makes almost any outfit appear Steampunkish, because the main requirement is femininity, and there are few things as feminine as corsets. You can also use a wide belt or a waist cincher.

A bustle will also help to create the illusion of times past.

It is fine to use some men’s clothing items, like military jacket or pants, but you need to “girl it up”. Use a bustle with your trousers, or use bloomers as trousers. (For Steampunk the bloomers can be of any length.) Wear a hitched skirt over the pants.

You can wear an authentic Victorian dress, or a reproduction, but these are not very comfortable and practical. One of the concepts behind Steampunk is adventure, and Victorian women used to wear a little shorter and simpler skirt for these occasions.

For Steampunk the skirt can be as short as above the knee, just as long as it has volume in the form of ruffles, rouches, pleats, drapes, hitches and gatherings. You can also use lace, ribbons, tassels and fringes to add to the volume in the skirt and bustle.

Your blouses, vests, jackets and coats should be fitted.

Women’s hats are a much more elaborate thing than men’s hats. You could also use a fascinator, which is something between a hair accessory and a hat.

You can add a parasol to almost any outfit.

If you use a handbag, choose something dainty, soft and round, like reticules and pouch bags, or something elaborately beaded or embroidered. Tapestry purses and carpetbags are a good choice too.

As shoes most laced boots work fine, so does laced shoes and ordinary boots. Your shoes can be of any color, but be careful with the heel. You should have shoes with a heel, and the heel should be either tapered or Louis heel.

Women should be wearing dangling earrings, but not too long, nor too big. A woman can easily wear necklaces on long chains. Lockets and medallions are a popular choice. Victorian women used rings and bracelets, sometimes in excess. Brooches are good, and medals fit women as well. Usual motives were flowers and animals, but to enhance the Steampunk impression, choose a cephalopod or arthropod – octopuses and insects always work. You can also wear a ribbon in a buttonhole, and flowers; corsage, nosegay or posy, are very nice as accessories for women. If you want to wear a wrist watch, it should be analog and on leather strap, but a pocket watch, necklace watch or brooch watch would be better.

The hairstyle is quite free for women too, but it is appreciated, that you have a long hair, either braided, in corkscrew curls or an updo.

Boys

Whether you choose a classic sailor costume or pants with braces and a shirt, perhaps add a sweater or pullover, you have to remember two things. The pants’ legs were short, just covering the knee, and boys too wore long socks.

I would put children in pantyhose, both boys and girls, but some boys find this too girly and thus uncomfortable, and they shouldn’t be forced to wear tights. If this happens, you give the boy stockings and call those knee socks. It might help to persuade the child to wear such uncomfortable and inconvenient pieces of clothing if you tell him that this is the origin of Christmas stockings, and the higher the stocking, the more space there is for presents. (Then you have to, of course, keep your promise and fill the stockings (both of them) to the brim, otherwise you will be considered a liar and a cheater, and it serves you right.)

I would choose laced boots for boys, but make sure that the shoes have separate heel and that the sole is made of one material. It really isn’t easy to find shoes for boys’ Steampunk outfits. You can also take a pair of ordinary leather “party shoes” and give the kid spats to “disguise” the modern details, or use simple canvas shoes that are the same color as the boy’s stockings. Don’t use sneakers.



Girls

Girls are usually easier to persuade to wear unusual clothing than boys, but even here you need to consider the child’s personality.

Even when it was unheard of that a Victorian girl would wear pants, it is quite acceptable for a Steampunk girl to do so.

A Victorian girl’s dress is usually one-piece, and you can choose the early Victorian dress with fitted bodice and wide skirt that falls from the waist, or the late Victorian dress that is straight and has a belt on the hips. A simple straw boater or beret is suitable for both styles, but a big hat with decorations shouldn’t be used but with the late Victorian or Edwardian dress.

Use either black, white, or striped stockings.

You can choose ballerinas, strap shoes, laced shoes or boots, laced or buttoned, but don’t choose shoes with too thick sole. Also, stay away from metallic shoes and shoes with figures or glitter, or much decoration.

Now your whole family is dressed up for a Steampunk adventure. Have fun!

By: Ketutar Jensen

About the Author:




Ketutar is a witch and a writer, interested in many things.



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Over the past fifteen years that I have operated Great South Gems & Minerals I have had many parents call, write, or email me saying that they have a daughter or son that loves rocks. Well, I can relate to that. I understand. I’m still a little boy at heart and like rocks myself.

The question most parents have is “How can I be of help to my daughter or son in encouraging his/her interest in rock collecting?Where can I go, or, what can I do to help them enjoy, learn and grow in their interest?”

When I was quite young my dad passed away. My mom remarried a few years later to my step-dad who was a rock hound. I was 12 years old at the time and became fascinated by his rock collection. He had mineral specimens, beautiful crystals, the likes of which I had never seen, and rocks from all over the United States, most of which he had personally collected. Almost immediately I took an interest in rocks.

My step-dad was quick to notice my interest and, truth be told, I think he was delighted he now had someone to share his interests. From the very beginning he went out of his way to promote and encourage my interest in rocks and rock collecting. By the time I went into the Marines at age 17, I had learned quite a bit about rocks and minerals and had put together a not-too-shabby rock collection of my own. My step-dad built a rock tumbler with a five-gallon drum. We kept it out in the shop behind the house and I was plum fascinated by the gorgeous tumbled stones, many of which he and I had picked up on some of our collecting trips. (See link below for article in Ray’s Ramblings on Rock Tumbling) He also made a lapidary machine where we could cut and polish gemstones. By the time I was 15 I had gotten pretty good at cutting gemstone cabochons.

I remember when I was 16 years old, I was asked to give demonstrations on gemstone cutting to my science teacher’s class in high school. In this class I cut a piece of rose quartz that I had collected at the Hogg Mine in LaGrange, Georgia. I first cut the stone into a sphere, sanded and polished it to locate the star, and then made matching cabochons. I mounted the matching pair of star rose quartz cabochons into a pair of earrings. One of the teachers later purchased this pair of earrings from me for $20.00. Needless to say I was thrilled, not only that I had made the stones myself, but that other folks liked and appreciated what I did.

In 1959 my step-dad and I joined The Georgia Mineral Society in Atlanta. We religiously went to every meeting they had and went on every rock collecting trip that the club sponsored. Through rubbing shoulders with like-minded folks in the society, attending meetings where they always had guest speakers, and going on collecting trips each month was a big help in promoting my interest in this great and fascinating hobby. And, as you can see, it has stuck with me all these years. And, I have found that the more I learn about rocks, crystals, fossils, and such, the more fascinating they are. My interest in earth science, how the earth formed, the changes that have taken place on our planet, how living things turn to stone fossils, and the like, has only grown over the years. And, I credit my caring step-dad for having planted that seed in my life as a youngster. When my step-dad passed away about 15 years ago, he left a flame that is still burning strongly, in me.

NOW! What is it that YOU can do to help stimulate YOUR child’s interest in rocks? Do the same things that my step-dad did for me!

1) Encourage their interest. They may grow up to be geologist, paleontologist, volcanologist, or, just a plain old rockhound hobbyist whose life is greatly enriched by their interest in rocks and rock collecting.

2) Join your local Gem & Mineral Society. There should be one near you in the US. Go on-line and type in “Gem & Mineral Society”. There should be a listing of clubs all over the USA. Most of these gem & mineral societies have monthly meetings. They publish a monthly bulletin that is sent to their members. They go on monthly field trips where they collect as a group. The dues for membership in a rock club runs from $10.00 to $25.00 per year and entitles the member to attend the meetings, get the monthly Bulletin, and go on their field trips. (See link below for The Georgia Mineral Society, Inc., located in Atlanta, Georgia.)

3) Go to gem & mineral shows. Most larger cities in the USA have at least one show a year. In Atlanta, we have five each year, sponsored by different groups. This is a great place to look at all the rocks, minerals, fossils, carvings, and other rock related items available. I try to attend as many of these shows as possible. It keeps me abreast of what is out there, what new items are coming into the American market from other countries, how to identify items, what other retailers are charging for their material, and lots more. Going to the gem & mineral shows is also a great way to purchase items for your collection, and learn new things while you’re at it.

4) Go on rock collecting field trips. If you as a parent are not interested in rocks and don’t have any interest in going with your child to a collecting site, then have one of the other club members take your child. I’m a member of six different clubs. I go on lots of field trips. Often times I take a couple of young people along on the trip. No, it doesn’t slow me down or hinder me… it makes the trip more enjoyable for me. It’s a blessing to see a young person’s face light up with excitement when they find a really cool specimen.

5) Purchase books on rocks, minerals & fossils. There are lots of books out there on the subject. Get your child some basic books; there are many publications written for the young person and beginner. (See link below for our selection of books).

6) Get your child some basic collecting tools. You don’t have to spend a lot of money for this. A plastic pail, a cheap claw hammer, a long flat-head screw driver, a cold chisel, a small garden-type scratching tool, and pair of safety glasses is about all they will need to get started. Once you get them some basic collecting tools, you have said in effect, “I see you are serious about rock collecting, and I want to help you.” Thus, they will take it even more seriously.

7) Help organize their rock collection. You can get some type of inexpensive display case, cabinet, drawer, frame, or such to put his/her collection in. You can get the small, fold-up, specimen boxes for their specimens. (See link below for fold-up specimen boxes.) Show him/her how to label the specimens. This will make the collection more organized, more valuable, and more “showy”.

I hope this article will help you get your child interested in rocks. Your help and enthusiasm will be something the child will carry with them for the rest of their life, and they will recall with fondness the pleasure they had learning and exploring this fascinating hobby.

Happy Rockhounding.

By: Ray Hill

About the Author:




Article in Ray’s Ramblings on Rock Tumbling ([http://www.greatsouth.net/tumble_polishing_stones.htm]) The Georgia Mineral Society, Inc (http://www.gamineral.org/) fold-up specimen boxes (http://www.greatsouth.net/miscellaneous/p-MC416.html)

Ray Hill



Great South Gems & Minerals, Inc.

greatsouth.net

888-933-GEMS

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Anyone that wants to make great wire jewelry needs to have the right tools. Many newbies to jewelry making — and even some of us who have been doing this for awhile get a bit intimidated when it comes to the world of tools. Some jewelry makers actually get a bit stubborn, and attempt to make one single tool work for every possible configuration. It just doesn’t work! You really do need a variety of tools for best success.

Here’s my best beginners’ tool list (and a frugal minded one at that) for working with wire:

* The most important first: your pliers- flat-nose, chain-nose, round-nose

* A good quality pair of side flush cutters

* A good, smooth steel plate (this is a terrific substitute that is less expensive than a steel bench block)

* A hardware store hammer

* A small nylon or rawhide mallet

* A flat file (can find this at either the hardware store or a hobby store)

* Fine steel wool (for cleaning and polishing)

These tools will help you master wire work jewelry and create many beautiful pieces of jewelry.

Now that you know what you need, you might be wondering where to get these things.

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