We have all seen it before, wax build up trapped in and around door edges, emblems and moldings. That whitish chalky look that reveals a car or truck has been quickly and slop polished. If your ride is important to you and you really want to prep the finish like the pros then read on.

First off we determine how dirty the vehicle is. If it is simply dust from driving then air blowing it down will work to remove 80% of the dust on the surface. A small pancake compressor that plugs in to a 110 volt outlet will do the job just fine. As a safety measure purchase an air blower with a rubber tip so you will not scratch the surface if you accidentally bump it.

If at all possible detail your vehicle in a garage or under a carport and never in the direct sun. The outside wind will tend to blow dust back on to the surface as you are trying to detail, so it makes sense to do it indoors if possible. The next step is to purchase tack cloths. The Surgical Blue brand of cloth is very tacky yet it does not leave a sticky residue when used properly like some brands do.

It is best to unfold the tack cloth so it is puffy, about a 1/2 thick covering just out side your hands surface. While lightly wiping the cars finish this will pick up 100 percent of the dust. These cloths are designed for Pre-paint cleaning so you know they are the best. Be sure and let the cloth do the work. No pressure just let it glide. 2- 4 strokes as long and straight as you can then folding the tack cloth to a new clean side. Repeat until the whole vehicle is wiped. Dupont has E-4144 Sontera polishing cloths that are disposable. These will not scratch any surface but allow water wiping, polish application and removal just right.

If the air blow method and tack cloth will not do the job because there is too much dirt on the surface then the next method is to wet down some Sontera towels and wipe the surface clean. Without tearing them in to individual pieces fold 3-4 cloths together the same as we discussed with the tack rag and dampen them well.

Be sure and squeeze excess water from the towels so it is as wet as can be without dripping. It should not drip once you squeeze it out, other wise you will be leaving water streaks and spots on the finish. The same method is used as the tack rag, long strokes but turn the rag more often to a clean side.

Remember that taking your car to a car wash and or using a wash bucket like an every day driver will scratch the finish. This will be undetectable outside and in high light but in low light you will see the hair line scratches that the soap and water bucket method offers. The dampened Sontera cloths will pick up the dirt easily because of the amount of moisture on the towel.

You have to turn the cloths to a clean area on a regular basis until your project is completely done. This could mean 3-6 sets of cloths if need be. Folding them to a 1/2 thick like the tack rag is perfect and continue to wipe and turn to a clean side until the rag is not picking up any more dirt. Never rinse out in water and use the same cloths as this will scratch the surface. Once the car is completely cleaned the next step is to mask off all the emblems, moldings and body gaps to keep wax and or polish from entering in and being stuck down in to the crevices making it hard to remove. Simply lay it on with your left hand/fingers pushing in to place while the right hand is guiding it. Reverse that if you are left handed.

3M 05990 hand Glaze is not a wax and it will only last 1-2 days. The finish it leaves is superior to that of a wax job but it is used for show work only. The following application methods will be the same for the wax of your choice. In the refinishing business we use this product because it has no silicone like wax which can contaminate a paint shop with fish eye problems.

Keep in mind that although it does not last as long as wax does the excess of this product is wiped off much easier then excess wax is. Small amounts are squeezed on to the Sontera cloths the size of a 50 cent piece is fine. In a circular motion apply the glaze with minimal pressure, when you witness this you can see how easily a molding or emblem will get buildup in the cracks compared to the taped areas.

You simply take another set of folded dry cloths and wipe until the residue is gone. You will see a beautiful reflection in the paint. If you have stubborn scratches or any stains 3M Finesse It part #5929 will remove them. It takes longer by hand using this material but if you are not use to power buffing then only use it by hand. It is the same application rate as all the other methods. It will also buff out the finish nice but will still need to be glazed to finish it off.

On to the tires we use a product called Forever Black available at most auto parts stores. This product blackens the tires so they look brand new but it does not leave them shiny or fake looking like some products do. Tires need cleaning before hand just like paint does. Using some of cloths previously used on the painted surface water wipe them down just past the treads.

For an all out show car remove the tires and clean in and out of the treads first. We actually rap the tires with plastic after highly detailing them and once we have the vehicle in place at a show we cut the plastic away so even the tread grooves are perfect. Apply tire gel evenly and liberally as the foam block applicator works and the tires are very porous. Wipe with a dry rag to remove the residue. Touch up if needed.

Following these methods will give you the ultimate results. The typical vehicle will take about 2 hours to achieve this if you are working steadily. This is worth it if you have to have the best.

Article provided by the Hot Rods team of Jeff Lilly Restorations!

By: Jeff Lilly

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Jeff Lilly Restorations!



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Faded headlights can seriously let down the overall look of a vehicle and can also compromise the actual operation of them. Many cars headlights that have begun to fade are simply left to get worse and worse because the owners do not think that anything can be done about the problem apart from completely replacing them with new units. Headlights can though, be effectively restored like the rest of the vehicle back to a fresh looking, smooth and crystal clear standard.

Headlights may become faded due to a number of factors such as harmful UV rays, rainwater, bonded surface contaminants, baked on bug splats and improper cleaning techniques for example.

In order to restore faded headlights they need to be thoroughly cleaned and ideally clayed first to remove all lose and bonded surface contaminants. A plastic polishing product should then be used to polish the lenses. You should ensure that all surrounding paintwork and trim is sufficiently protected to prevent the plastic polish from contaminating it. The product can either be applied and worked in by hand or by machine, but using a machine will achieve the desired results far more quickly and easily.

If you are unable to use a designated plastic polish then any normal abrasive paintwork polish can be used. You should begin with the least abrasive product only working up to a more aggressive one if necessary. If a fairly heavily abrasive polish product needs to be used it is advisable to then re polish the area with a finer grade polish in order to refine the finish.

Some headlights may contain stone chips and be very heavily faded in which case they will need to be wet sanded prior to polishing. You should use the appropriate fine grades of paper and use plenty of water or even a detailing spray as a lubricant. You should thoroughly work your way through the grades until the headlight has been finished using the finest grade of paper.

It should be noted that if a headlight is to be wet sanded you should ideally have access to a machine polisher as you will not be able to remove the sanding marks properly by hand.

After wet sanding, the headlight lens should be machine polished to with an appropriate pad and abrasive polish remove the wet sanding marks and restore it to a clear standard. Again you may need to re polish with a finer grade product in order to fully refine the finish.

After polishing, it is important to properly protect the headlight to help prevent it from fading again. Ideally a good quality synthetic sealant should be used for this as these types of product tend to provide the best durability and are ideally suited for areas of a vehicle that are exposed and vulnerable.

The headlights should then be maintained along with the rest of the car, by regularly washing and drying and reapplying the protection as it fades.

By: Joe Mcdonald

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To Find Out How to Properly Clean, Polish and Protect Your Car and For More Information to Help You With Your Car Cleaning Visit Car Cleaning Guru Today.



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If your like me having a clean and sharp looking car is very important. You take your car to get washed and detailed, you may even spend the money to have the car repainted, just to get that showroom floor look. All this washing and polishing may make your paint look great, but can wreak havoc on your tail light lenses. Today we will outline what it takes to polish your tail lights to give them a better than new shine.

The supplies needed to do this project are relatively cheap, some of which you may already have around the house. The rest of them can be easily obtained from your local hardware store or auto body supply house. You will need some 400 grit wet sanding paper, a buffing wheel, a buffer to mount it to, a clean terry cloth towel, and some sort of plastic polishing compound. Several companies have products on the market for this, I prefer the one made by the Eastwood Company.

Start by removing the tail lights from the vehicle. Some people will attempt to leave the tail lights in during this step, however it is not recommended as you can slip and accidentally sand down your cars paint. Once removed you may start sanding down the lenses with your 400 grit wet sand paper. It is not necessary to sand the entire lens, just any blemishes on them. You may also choose to sand down the DOT lettering and other part numbers at this time, to give a cleaner look. Be sure to keep the sand paper wet.

Once you have finished sanding down the lens, wash it thoroughly with soap and water. I recommend using a dish soap for this part as the de-greasing agent in the soap will remove any remaining wax that may be on the lens. Dry the lens fully.

Once the lens is dry, its time to start the polishing process. Spin the buffing wheel and start to pick up the polishing compound you got from the auto body repair supply house into it. Do not take to much compound on the wheel, just enough to start to change the color of the wheel. Start applying it to the lens, but be careful not to sit in one area for to long as this will cause a over heating issue which can lead to a warped and melted lens. Move quickly back and forth over the lens and you will avoid this issue all together. Wipe any excess compound off with the towel. If you start to get black blobs on the surface its a sign that you are using to much compound.

At this point continue buffing until you see desired results. It wont be long now until your old lenses have a new glass like finish! Sit back, relax, and enjoy your results.

By: Chip Roth

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Chip Roth is owner of DIY Body Repair and has 30+ years experience in the field. Please check us out for more DIY guides and auto body information.



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Having recently bought a sports car I have invested some time finding out how to get a professional “high gloss” wax finish to the bodywork. So here are my findings and observations which should help you to get the best results.

Firstly, polishing and waxing are two different things and they should not be confused.

Polishing is the process of attaining the best finish to the paintwork prior to waxing and it involves using a “polish” which is a mild abrasive intended to remove minor burs and blemishes.

Waxing is the application of a protective and shine enhancing finish coat.

So, here are the processes that I followed and which have got me some pretty good results. Always commence the cleaning, waxing and polishing activities from the roof down and do not wash, polish or wax the car in direct sunlight.

1. Use a hose pipe, pressure washer hose, or a few of buckets of clean water to remove any grit, dirt or potentially “scratch creating” debris from the car. Do not rub the car at this stage as the dirt will cause minor scratches.

2. Once all visible abrasive dirt is removed, use a proper car clean detergent (shampoo) mixed with water. This will not cause water marks and runs like “washing-up liquid” or household cleaners will. Apply the water/shampoo with a large sponge or mitt using the minimum amount of pressure required to remove any water stains or marks that remain.

3. Rinse the car thoroughly with clean water.

4. Dry the car using a chamois leather, or better still a noodle mitt (this absorbs more water). When you have finished, the car should be completely dry with no marks or water runs left on it.

5. At this stage you need to use a cotton cloth to buff the car and get it as shiny as possible. If there are any minor scratches or scuffs it may be possible to polish them out with an auto body polish. If this is the case, follow the instructions on the product container precisely and ensure that all residues of the polish have been removed when the “polish process” is complete.

The quality of your wax finish will be determined by how good a job you have made of the car cleaning process up to this stage, and it is the activities up to this point that require the greatest investment of time.

6.1 When the car is clean, dry and gleaming you can start to apply the wax. There are actually two types of wax, “real” wax and resin, and both should provide good results. (The resin is easier to apply and may last longer.)

6.2 The wax application should be a quick process. You start by adding a small quantity of wax or resin to a cotton cloth and then gently (with a minimum of pressure) apply it to the car. You can commence by using circular motions, but you MUST finish with straight motions, e.g. up and down the length of the hood, for best results.

6.3 Always work on a small area at one time and try to follow a logical pattern, e.g. starting with the roof, hood, trunk etc and working down and around.

6.4 Once you have finished and the wax/resin has dried (which should be very quickly), you take a clean cotton cloth and wipe off the residue. You will need to continually turn and shake the cloth to remove the fine residue powder. Once this is complete your car “should” have a showroom shine. Furthermore, repeating the wax application on a regular basis should build up the protection of your paintwork against air bound chemicals, ultra violet light and general dust and dirt.

Always follow the instructions for the specific product that you use and keep the wax/resin off rubber trims, alloy wheels, tyres and glass.

By: Martin Lambert

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Author on a range of different and diverse subjects from orthopedic products to travel. http://www.rollergaragedoor.net

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